Cylomundo

So, Paul and I discovered this adventure through Cyclomundo - a cycling tour outfit headed up by Bruno Toutain. Although not in charge of any of the logistics of the event, Bruno picked us up from the airport and acted as our eyes and ears. It was comforting to know that we had a representative given that (as typical Americans) our knowledge of the French language is nonexistent. We were also very fortunate to meet several other riders in the Cyclomundo group from England, New Zealand and beyond, which certainly enriched the experience. If at all interested in a similar event or perhaps even better...a custom cycling tour in Europe...we highly recommend considering Bruno (in green below) and his expertise.

....thanks again Bruno!

http://cyclomundo.com/

Pain

Day 5 - Paul

This is the only day we start and end in the same location, La Toussuire. As with all mountain top starts, the beginning was the best part. 45 minutes of 30-40 MPH twisting descent. That was followed by a few miles on the flats which brought us to the ascent up the Col du Glandon. For the first time the entire trip, my legs felt good and the first 15K went well. Then it got hot and the gradient steepened from 7-8% to 11%. The combination of 4 days of 6 hrs plus per day on the bike and the gradient conspired to slow me to a grind. Summited atop the Glandon and then had a few more K to get to top of the Croix de Fer. Once again unable to choke down much at the feed station, I opted to cut the day one Col short. A rapid descent off the Croix de Fer, brought me back to the 12K grind back to la Toussuire. It was so hot the road was melting and pebbles were sticking to my tires! Finally rolled in to the finish, found some shade, and happily put my bike away for the last time this trip. Used the usual mode of recovery, San Peligrino and great French meal and the odyssey was complete.

Day 5 - Dessert

The final day. Not easy to get back on the bike. Some riders opt to improvise and go for an easier spin but at this point I don't find that to be a viable option. Just one more ride right? Ouch! After yet another mesmerizing 45 minute descent we found ourselves at the base of the Col du Glandon - another "above category" climb. Legs felt surprisingly good so I decided to push it a bit. After many miles of a 7-8% grade the last mile or so turned up. Along most of these famous climbs there are kilometer markers on the side of the road which count down to the summit but also indicate the next kilometer's grade. They do provide some distraction from the pain but on this occasion they added to it. The last 3 km were 10-11% (i.e. for every 100 feet forward you gain 10 feet of elevation!). Even the clanging bells around the alpine cow's necks couldn't distract from this pain. Turned up the tunes in my ear and turned the cranks 10 feet at a time. Several hours, several thousand calories, another climb and 2 descents later I found myself at the bottom of the Toussuire - the last climb of the tour. Nine miles up - in the 90 degree heat the pavement was melting and little stones were clinging to the tires - ugh. This was indeed an appropriate end to the week and what an incredible week it has been!

Day 4 - Paul

After rehydrating with a Bloody Mary the night-before (replenishing my missing salt quotient too) day 4 started with the descent of the Alpe d' Huez- a bit scary in a large group with 22 switchbacks to negotiate. We did get to appreciate the skills of one of the Cofidis pro riders who didn't seem to require brakes. Then a 20 or 30 K flat section of fast pelaton riding to the entree of the day, the Croix de Fer. At the time of this writing, it seems like a blur. Long winding uphill roads through wildflower strewn alpine meadows with the odd cowbell laden bovine at the side of the road topped with a feed station stocked with salami, cheese, water and Coke. My digestive system wasn't having any of it and after choking down what little I could, I descended down what must be one of the all time great twisting descents to the base of the last climb. At this point, my nausea and lack of calories caught up with me big time, and for the first time in my life, I flagged down the sag wagon about 5 K from the finish. A few hours by the pool, a bottle of San Peligrino and a great French dinner later and it was time for stage 5.

Day 4 - Croix de Fer

So with the Tour stage in the bag we had a night in the beautiful Pic Blanc hotel complete with a stunning view over the mountains. Day 4 began with the usual gathering of cyclists at the start point - all a bit jittery at the notion of descending Alpe d'Huez en masse - all 22 switchbacks. After surviving the descent it was a fast ride with the pro rider from Cofidis leading the pace line to the base of the next climb - the Col de la Croix du Fer. Legs felt pretty good and I managed to cling to the front group for the first 10 minutes or so of the climb but fell off as the pace remained unrelenting. Finished the climb pacing with a rider from Belgium - stuffed down some cheese and prosciutto at the top - another unbelievable descent along the sheer wall of a gorge to the base of the last climb into Toussuire (featured as the final stage of this year's Dalphine ) - an alpine resort with amazing views. Good laughs over dinner with the Kiwi crew and off for some sleep before the final day...

Day 3 - Through the Eyes of Paul

Telegraphe, Galibier and Alpe d' Huez. A huge day! Started with a 30K coast from our hotel to the beginning of theTelegraphe. From there, the fun began. The Telegraphe may be the only reasonable climb in this whole odysee something like 12K at 7%; well suited for mortals like me. From there it is downhill to the first real entree off the day, the Galibier. Like all good climbs, it saves the best for last getting steeper as you go. Just what the doctor didn't ask for! The descent off the Galibier was a 35 mile smile except for one near death experience when 2 motorcycles coming up the mountain veered into our lane when overtaking a car and literally missing us by inches.
A quick rest at the base of the Alpe d' Huez and then a long steep grind up the 22 switchbacks. Missing were the madding crowds lining the route that feature so prominently in the Tour. At the top, I was nearly unconscious, dehydrated, exhausted and nauseated. An IV would have been useful.