Cylomundo

So, Paul and I discovered this adventure through Cyclomundo - a cycling tour outfit headed up by Bruno Toutain. Although not in charge of any of the logistics of the event, Bruno picked us up from the airport and acted as our eyes and ears. It was comforting to know that we had a representative given that (as typical Americans) our knowledge of the French language is nonexistent. We were also very fortunate to meet several other riders in the Cyclomundo group from England, New Zealand and beyond, which certainly enriched the experience. If at all interested in a similar event or perhaps even better...a custom cycling tour in Europe...we highly recommend considering Bruno (in green below) and his expertise.

....thanks again Bruno!

http://cyclomundo.com/

Pain

Day 5 - Paul

This is the only day we start and end in the same location, La Toussuire. As with all mountain top starts, the beginning was the best part. 45 minutes of 30-40 MPH twisting descent. That was followed by a few miles on the flats which brought us to the ascent up the Col du Glandon. For the first time the entire trip, my legs felt good and the first 15K went well. Then it got hot and the gradient steepened from 7-8% to 11%. The combination of 4 days of 6 hrs plus per day on the bike and the gradient conspired to slow me to a grind. Summited atop the Glandon and then had a few more K to get to top of the Croix de Fer. Once again unable to choke down much at the feed station, I opted to cut the day one Col short. A rapid descent off the Croix de Fer, brought me back to the 12K grind back to la Toussuire. It was so hot the road was melting and pebbles were sticking to my tires! Finally rolled in to the finish, found some shade, and happily put my bike away for the last time this trip. Used the usual mode of recovery, San Peligrino and great French meal and the odyssey was complete.

Day 5 - Dessert

The final day. Not easy to get back on the bike. Some riders opt to improvise and go for an easier spin but at this point I don't find that to be a viable option. Just one more ride right? Ouch! After yet another mesmerizing 45 minute descent we found ourselves at the base of the Col du Glandon - another "above category" climb. Legs felt surprisingly good so I decided to push it a bit. After many miles of a 7-8% grade the last mile or so turned up. Along most of these famous climbs there are kilometer markers on the side of the road which count down to the summit but also indicate the next kilometer's grade. They do provide some distraction from the pain but on this occasion they added to it. The last 3 km were 10-11% (i.e. for every 100 feet forward you gain 10 feet of elevation!). Even the clanging bells around the alpine cow's necks couldn't distract from this pain. Turned up the tunes in my ear and turned the cranks 10 feet at a time. Several hours, several thousand calories, another climb and 2 descents later I found myself at the bottom of the Toussuire - the last climb of the tour. Nine miles up - in the 90 degree heat the pavement was melting and little stones were clinging to the tires - ugh. This was indeed an appropriate end to the week and what an incredible week it has been!

Day 4 - Paul

After rehydrating with a Bloody Mary the night-before (replenishing my missing salt quotient too) day 4 started with the descent of the Alpe d' Huez- a bit scary in a large group with 22 switchbacks to negotiate. We did get to appreciate the skills of one of the Cofidis pro riders who didn't seem to require brakes. Then a 20 or 30 K flat section of fast pelaton riding to the entree of the day, the Croix de Fer. At the time of this writing, it seems like a blur. Long winding uphill roads through wildflower strewn alpine meadows with the odd cowbell laden bovine at the side of the road topped with a feed station stocked with salami, cheese, water and Coke. My digestive system wasn't having any of it and after choking down what little I could, I descended down what must be one of the all time great twisting descents to the base of the last climb. At this point, my nausea and lack of calories caught up with me big time, and for the first time in my life, I flagged down the sag wagon about 5 K from the finish. A few hours by the pool, a bottle of San Peligrino and a great French dinner later and it was time for stage 5.

Day 4 - Croix de Fer

So with the Tour stage in the bag we had a night in the beautiful Pic Blanc hotel complete with a stunning view over the mountains. Day 4 began with the usual gathering of cyclists at the start point - all a bit jittery at the notion of descending Alpe d'Huez en masse - all 22 switchbacks. After surviving the descent it was a fast ride with the pro rider from Cofidis leading the pace line to the base of the next climb - the Col de la Croix du Fer. Legs felt pretty good and I managed to cling to the front group for the first 10 minutes or so of the climb but fell off as the pace remained unrelenting. Finished the climb pacing with a rider from Belgium - stuffed down some cheese and prosciutto at the top - another unbelievable descent along the sheer wall of a gorge to the base of the last climb into Toussuire (featured as the final stage of this year's Dalphine ) - an alpine resort with amazing views. Good laughs over dinner with the Kiwi crew and off for some sleep before the final day...

Day 3 - Through the Eyes of Paul

Telegraphe, Galibier and Alpe d' Huez. A huge day! Started with a 30K coast from our hotel to the beginning of theTelegraphe. From there, the fun began. The Telegraphe may be the only reasonable climb in this whole odysee something like 12K at 7%; well suited for mortals like me. From there it is downhill to the first real entree off the day, the Galibier. Like all good climbs, it saves the best for last getting steeper as you go. Just what the doctor didn't ask for! The descent off the Galibier was a 35 mile smile except for one near death experience when 2 motorcycles coming up the mountain veered into our lane when overtaking a car and literally missing us by inches.
A quick rest at the base of the Alpe d' Huez and then a long steep grind up the 22 switchbacks. Missing were the madding crowds lining the route that feature so prominently in the Tour. At the top, I was nearly unconscious, dehydrated, exhausted and nauseated. An IV would have been useful.

Day 3 - Reliving a Tour stage

After a decent sleep we had to walk (which we are now trying to avoid as much as possible) down to a "classic" French camping dining hall. Slurped some coffee from a bowl (I guess that's how French campers do it), ate the usual delicious bread and cheese and set off to tackle the hardest stage of this year's Tour de France (+15 miles!?!?). After a fast 25 mile peleton rollout led by the pro riders the pain began. My knee started screaming at me less than half way up the Télégraphe but somehow the combination of the "shut up" mantra and a bit of luck it quieted down for most of the ride. I found myself reliving the Tour through much of the ride truly marveling the speed with which those riders dance up the mountains - unbelievable. Cresting the Col du Galibier was quite a rush but not nearly as much as the downhill to follow. After a near death encounter with 2 motorcycles at 40mph and many switchbacks, the ride took us to the base of the famous Alp d'Huez (our backs splattered with French tunnel sweat). 22 switchbacks and 4000 more feet of climbing is not really what we were looking for after 72 miles. Up I went - counting down the famous curves one by one ... the juxtaposition of the surrounding beauty and inner suffering was to a degree that I'm not quite familiar. I found myself trying to waste time by reading the recently painted roads "Go Alberto!" and eventually crested the top of perhaps the most famous climb in cycling. The fatigue is beyond words. Pizza for dinner...

Day 2

Ok....so that really hurt. 10900 feet of climbing in 85 miles ... total of over 20000 feet and 150 miles in 2 days and we're just "warming up?". After climbing over the highest pass in the Alpes we've settled into a small French village in the valley-crammed as much pasta into us as possible and will try to sleep in preparation for more of the same.
Tomorrow brings the 2011 Tour de France stage described as "murderous". Perhaps you think we're silly...and maybe we are... but what goes up must come down and the descents are indeed blistering - a total rush.
Tomorrow my brain will feature the repetitive mantra of "shut up legs" and with any luck, they'll listen!

Day 1 - hors d'œuvres

The main event started today. Probably about a hundred riders including some pros. After about 4 miles, the fun began with a 5 mile climb, average 13%(read steep!). Then on to col de Aravis (20 k) and lastly on to col des Saises ( 14K). The point is, it was more climbing in one day than I have ever done(9000ft) and at the beginning of the last climb, disaster struck as I started to cramp. I now have new found sympathy for all my patients who whine about their nocturnal cramps! I watched matt disappear into the distance and my world of pain began. All I could hear was Phil Ligget in my ear yelling "he's cracked"and Paul Sherwin describing how I was calling for more power from the engine room. Those voices however were drowned out by Richard Thompson singing "Fire in the Engine room" which was more the case. I was doing alot of thinking on those last 10K, mostly about how to convert MPH to KPH to calculate how much longer this sufferfest would last. Thinking however was overshadowed by the pain in my back (the Jens Voigt trick of saying "shut up back" just didn't work!) and at last I finished.
Final thought for the day: Mr. Ibuprofen deserves the Nobel Prize in medicine!
Good night!

Apertif des Paul

Well, I have been silent until now. The trip was uneventful. Got to the flight on time and boarded only to remember never to fly Swiss again. I think the Swiss must be a small people, ( Rodger Federer and Fabian Cancellara seem normal size, but they probably don't fly swiss) but it was good practice for the tuck position on the bike. Our guide Bruno picked us up at the airport and delivered us to the hotel at the start of the event; part shopping mall complete with the biggest indoor climbing wall I have ever seen, part water park, and part bizarre as it all sits in an agricultural suburb of Geneva. Very strange but comfy enough. Met a couple of nice Quebecois boys and latched on-built in translators. ( turns out those French have a different word for everything). A night on the town in Geneva then back for a well earned kip.
Saturday we reassembled the bikes in a Walmart sized parking lot. Pretty smooth until I found that the master link on my chain was missing. A quick drive to the local bike shop and back in business. We took a short warm up ride to the base of the first climb of the event: started up the 13% slopes and came to our senses. We got the idea and wisely turned around and went looking for lunch-not an easy task at 2 pm when everything closes for the afternoon. A lousy sandwich from the local grocery and then an afternoon at the water park reading in the sun, watching the French dance to remakes of techno music in French.

Apéritif

Took a spin to the first climb to see what we're in for tomorrow. Despite being the smallest climb it starts at a nasty 13% incline. Rode a bit of it and decided to save the legs for tomorrow. Had dinner with a great group of fellow riders with an average body fat percent just a bit higher than that of Kate Moss and called it a day. We'll see what tomorrow brings...

Europa!

So we (and perhaps more importantly our bikes) survived the trip to Geneva and were met by our contact - Bruno. A short ride later we were across the border in Neyden, France, a suburb of Geneva. We settled into our somewhat bizarre little hotel - a minimalistic, but turns out, very pleasant place that happens to be attached to a large water park and mall - and shortly after met 2 fellow riders from the Montreal area. It was as if Paul and I had suddenly regained our hearing and speech! We could again communicate without hand signals (typical Americans) and set out to explore the city. After a delicious meal and solid sleep we sit gorging on fresh baguettes and pain au chocolat preparing to reassemble the bikes for a "wake up the legs" spin. Tomorrow, the suffering shall begin...

Le Menu

Cols

Day 1
Mont Salève - Cat 4
Col des Aravis - Cat 2
Col des Saisies - Cat 1

Day 2
Cormet de Roseland - Cat 1
Col de L'Iseran - HC

Day 3
Col du Telegraphe - HC
Col du Galibier - HC
L' Alpe d'Huez - HC

Day 4
Col de Sarenne
Croix de Fer - HC
La Toussuire - Cat 1

Day 5
Col du Mollard - Cat 1
Col de la Croix de Fer - HC
Col du Glandon - HC

In general terms, Category 4 climbs are short and easy. Category 3 climbs last approximately 5 kilometers (3.1 miles), have an average grade of 5 percent, and ascend 150 meters (500 feet). Category 2 climbs are the same length or longer at an 8 percent grade and ascend 500 meters (1,600 feet). Category 1 climbs last 20 kilometers (12.4 miles) with an average 6 percent grade and ascend 1,500 meters. Beyond category climbs include an altitude difference of at least 1,000 meters (3,280 feet) from start to finish and have an average grade of at least 7 percent.

Bikeman....our LBS!!!

www.bikeman.com

T-4 days til' departure

Bikes are packed...hoping they survive the TSA!!! Time to rest the legs and fret over the heinous ride profiles. Ahhh how sweet the pain shall be...

Here we go...1 week until the eve of the Tour de Alpes...a 5 day cycling tour over 14 mountains in the high alps of France. Tour de pain ... 2 dudes from Maine...